Viking Apron Dress or “Smokkr”
This dress is also
called a Hangerok, but it is thought that term is from after the time when
these dresses were worn. For an evolution of the Viking Apron Dress see Compleat Anachronist #59.
The pattern here is
for the fitted 10th Century version of the dress. This is only one version of
the apron dress pattern. There are others. This one is the best I've found for
fabric usage and ease of sewing. Again, this pattern comes from Hefdharfru Vigdís
Vestfirzka http://www.silverdor.org/viking/vikingad.html
Here's what it will look like when complete:
Measurements:
1. Bust + 6 times your seam allowance (around the
biggest part of you between your waist and underarms)
2. Chest to
Waist + 1in(from where you want the top of the apron to where you want the
flare to start)
3. Waist to
Hem (from where your flare starts to however long you want, generally below the
knee to mid-calf)
Yardage:
You’ll need a piece of fabric that is as wide around as
measurement (1). The length will be measurements (2)+(3)+(3). This is the
bodice plus twice the skirt.
For example:
My bust measurement is 55 inches.
My bodice is 10 inches.
My skirt is 40 inches.
My bust measurement is 55 inches.
My bodice is 10 inches.
My skirt is 40 inches.
Therefore, I will need a piece of fabric 58 inches wide
by 90 inches long.
I can get a whole calf-length apron dress out of 2 1/5
yards of 55" or 60" wide fabric. Which is nice considering how
expensive wool is!
I will end up cutting a 2 inch strip off the side which I
will use as the straps. If you are exactly the same measurement around as the fabric
you are using, you will need about 4 inches more fabric length for the straps
(or you can use some card or inkle weaving).
To cut out your fabric:
You will need a yard stick/measuring tape/piece of string
for this as well as a piece of chalk that contrasts with your fabric.
Take your big rectangle of fabric, fold it in half long-ways
and spread it out flat with the selvedges touching (the finished edge of the
fabric as it comes off the bolt)
Mark the lines according to the above layout in chalk then
cut out along the chalk lines. Be sure not the cut the fold!
Sewing the Body
1. Attach the
smaller triangles to the side back pieces.
2. Sew the pieces
in the above order. Side back 1, Gore,
Front, Gore, Side back 2, Gore
- Note: When sewing the gores (the larger triangles) be sure to align the tops first when doing the back, you can always even the hem later, but if the seams are not aligned they cannot be hidden. Especially if you want to do some embroidery!
3. Sew the last
seam to form the dress into a flared tube. You may need to take in the waist
part a bit, if you have more of an hourglass shape.
4. Fold the top
edge over 1 inch and sew down. I like using a bit of decorative stitching to do this to
embellish the seam. If you are adding tablet weaving or trim at the top add
that now.
5. Trim the bottom
edge of the dress so it is even, then hem it.
Once the pieces are all together you should be able to pull
the dress on over your head. It should fit around your bust and flare right
over your hips. Test this. Test this before putting trim on. There is no crying in historical reenactment sewing, unless you don't try things on while sewing.
Straps:
To make straps, take 2 strips of fabric about 18 inches long
by 4 inches wide. (mine are 2 inches wide, which just means I don’t fold them)
Fold them into tubes right-side in, stitch, turn right-side
out and press.
Turn in the ends and stitch down so the tubes are closed.
To place the straps, pin them in place 1-2 inches on either
side of the center back seam and sew them down
They should go inside the dress, not outside.
The front end of the straps are best left loose and fastened
with your brooches. This way you can adjust the fit, a good idea because linen
has a tendency to “grow” in heat.
Strap Variation:
You can also make smaller tubes (1/2 inch when finished) of
fabric and make doubled straps.
This way you are not piercing the fabric with your brooches
but attaching them to the loop at the front of your dress and through the loop
of the doubled strap.
You will have two long loops which will come over your
shoulders and two short loops at the front of the dress.
You will have to more precise with your strap measurement
with this method.
I suggest stitching down one side of the tube of each strap
and adjusting the other with a safety pin until it is correct.
You can also attach the back of the loops at the center back
or one of the ends of the loop at the center back and one straight making an M
shape. These variations are especially useful if you have sloped shoulders and
straps tend to slide off.
*DING* Dress is done!
Further Resources:
- þora Sharptooth: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/vikresource.html
- Gunnora Hallakarva: http://www.vikinganswerlady.org/
- Ellisif Flakkari: http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/mjc/sca/aprond.html
- Thorson & Svava’s website: http://thorsonandsvava.sccspirit.com/viking_resources/index.htm
- Another verison of the Viking dress: http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/viking.html
- Overview on one extant apron dress (author calls it a pinafore)http://www.shelaghlewins.com/reenactment/hedeby_apron/hedeby_apron.htm
- Other extant finds: http://www.pvv.ntnu.no/~hmg/lrp/kostyme/viking/v-k-forklekjole.html
- More information on underdresses and men’s garb from extant finds: http://www.pvv.ntnu.no/~hmg/lrp/kostyme/viking/v-k-underkjole.html
- Viking Embroidery: http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/vikembroid.html
I was wondering if you could send me a paper pattern, my daughter is in the SCA and wants a viking dress and apron. I know how to sew but i need a pattern. I would be thankful if you could send me a pattern. My daughter is a plus size 22. Or let me know how to get a pattern.
ReplyDeleteThank you sherry Cripe
Drulissa1@yahoo.com